Sunday, August 29, 2010

Water

"Water is life.” On our first day in the northern village of Ngurunit, our host, Stephen Labarakwe, made this simple yet profound statement. We were in his village in early August which is winter. Many days were cloudy, but we never had one drop of rain in our two weeks there. This area of Kenya gets less than 10 inches of rain in a typical year, and much of that comes in March through April in deluges that run off too quickly to be captured. We saw many river beds but almost all were completely dry. There was a well near the camp where we stayed, and we saw three young warriors (moran) in the well bringing out buckets of water on a day the water was flowing, and cows, goats, and camels soon took turns at the trough.

Our hosts always made sure we had bottled water, and, on the one day that we ran low, we did get a little nervous. I cannot imagine what it would be like to face days when water was not available. Our hosts had set up a shower for us to use, a barrel with water attached to a shower head. When we saw the lack of water our hosts faced, we chose to forgo the shower as it seemed like an unnecessary luxury. We saw a dam that a German company had constructed to capture more of the rainy season flow. Also, some of the schools we saw had 10,000 liter barrels attached to gutters on the roof to store the precious rain that did fall. I hope I never again take for granted the water that we are blessed to always have available to us.

Muddy



The singing well: Moran below hoists bucket of water to his peer who fills the trough,
both singing a call-and-response chant.


Photos:

Steven, Laurel, and Muddy at a dam and dry riverbed (Claudia Daggett)

Large water tanks at WorldVision (Claudia Daggett)

Schoolyard water tank (Muddy Waters)


Video:
Singing well
(Muddy Waters)

Sunday, August 22, 2010

Our Friend, Steven

We are likely all too familiar with the various roles we undertake when leading schools: wise counselor, patient listener, passionate advocate, benevolent judge, inspired educator, etc. Our school cultures present us with strengths and challenges that help guide us in prioritizing our time. We take comfort in the company of colleagues (shameless promotion for the value of ESHA here). Once in a great while, we meet a colleague who makes us shake our heads in wonder at all that he or she accomplishes. This is how we felt after meeting Steven Labarakwe, who leads seven primary schools in the Laisamis area of Northern Kenya.
During our time with Steven, we covered several hundred kilometers visiting his schools. Do you have buildings on different sites? Imagine having to travel over rock-filled and washed out dirt roads to get to them. Undertaking capital improvements? Steven must constantly work on improving his buildings, most of which are without electricity or running water. He monitors the collection of water in fantastically-sized barrels large enough to walk into or the digging and maintenance of wells next to the sites with underground water. We made a humble contribution by painting blackboards in one school and gathering stones for the foundation of a new classroom addition to another. Project management? Steven built a beautiful new primary school in Mpagas within the last year thanks to his efforts in organizing local and international volunteers. He also worked with a Netherlands foundation, Ayuda en Todas Partes, to purchase the materials (http://www.ayuda-en-todas-partes.nl, website in Dutch). The school, on a beautiful hilltop, now serves as something of a local community gathering spot. Teacher and administrative oversight? We read, with awe, the monthly report from one of the schools. The thoroughness of the school's inventory (including a special accounting of the school's camels, castrated and uncastrated, goats, cows, rice, beans, and other assets) caused us all to marvel.

Along the way, Steven practiced the art of pole pole (literally translated, it means "slowly" in Kiswahili but we came to view it as an approach to life). Pole pole (pronounced po-lay po-lay) requires one to stop at any point and greet clan members, neighbors, friends and potential new friends. Handshaking is a requirement, as are affirmations of head nodding and sounds like "eh" every time there is a lull in the conversation. Steven also served as the primary source of news. In a place with little or no electricity, great geographical distances, multiple dialects and languages, and illiteracy, Steven brought the news to the people. Bringing news is always pole pole.

In the village of Ngurunit where Steven maintains the equivalent of a summer getaway home, Steven's time and attention were taken up with organizing the women's market, political advising for the constitutional vote, counseling to people about their children's health and education, being a father and husband, and, for one special friend, arranging his marriage ceremony. In addition to all of these responsibilities, he served as our cultural interpreter, driver, and fellow traveller during our visit. By the end of our time together, we felt honored to have been given the opportunity to get to know this incredible school leader who we fondly referred to as "the Big Boss."

Laurel

Photo: Steven Labarakwe (Photo credit, Laurel Seid)



Thursday, August 12, 2010

Travels with Taita Toyota


Here's a photo of our trusty Land Cruiser, dubbed "Taita" in honor of one of our first adventures in Kenya. She (and Steven, our host, mentor and driver) helped us cover many dusty and bumpy miles, as illustrated below by our map and Muddy's log of our journey.



Kenya travels, 7/27/10-8/10/10

MUDDY'S LOG:


Sunday, July 25
10:40 AM Jamie, Muddy, and Claudia arrive at Logan Airport
11:30 AM Told flight to NYC delayed for mechanical reasons
2:45 PM Mechanical problems not resolved; new plane on way
3:45 PM Weather in NYC (80 MPH winds) cause further delay; means we will miss connection and must rebook and meet Laurel in Zurich
9:30 PM Leave on Swiss Air for Zurich (3738 mile trip)

Monday, July 26
10:30 AM Arrive in Zurich; meet Laurel; check in at Radisson Blu Hotel at airport (6 hour time difference from EDT)
12:30 PM Take train to Old Town part of Zurich
1:30 PM Eat lunch at Zeughauskeller Restaurant
2:30 PM Wander through Zurich
5:00 PM Take train back to hotel
7:00 PM Take train back to Old Town and eat dinner at Mere Catherine restaurant
9:30 PM Back to hotel as sun is setting

Tuesday, July 27 (cloudy and cool)
7:00 AM Wakeup call
9:30 AM Leave for Nairobi (3784 mile trip – 7 hour diff. from EDT)
6:15 PM Land in Nairobi as sun sets and met by Stephen Labarakwe and a driver
6:45 PM Arrive Sarova Stanley Hotel in Nairobi
7:30 PM Meet Joseph Lekuton for dinner at hotel
10:00 PM Bed

Wednesday, July 28 (partly cloudy and cool)
5:30 AM Wakeup
6:00 AM Leave in Toyota Land Cruiser for Sarova Salt Lick Game Lodge in Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary near Tsavo West Game Park in southern Kenya (360 KM)
12:30 PM Arrive at Sarova Taita Hills Game Lodge for lunch
4:00 PM Game drive with guide named Crispus; saw elephants, zebras, buffalo, eland, gazelles, antelope and more
7:30 PM Dinner
10:00 PM Bed

Thursday, July 29 (partly sunny)
5:30 AM Wakeup
6:00 AM Game drive (same animals plus giraffes and monkeys)
8:30 AM Surprise breakfast in the bush with tables with linens, chef, full breakfast and champagne
10:15 AM Return to lodge
11:30 AM Up to Taita Hills for lunch
12:30 PM Relax
4:00 PM Game drive
6:00 PM Another surprise – Sundowner, which is snacks on a hill as sun sets
8:30 PM Dinner
10:00 PM Bed

Friday, July 30 (sunniest day yet and warm)
7:00 AM Wakeup
9:00 AM Leave Tsavo West area for Nairobi
4:00 PM Arrive Sarova Stanley in Nairobi
7:00 PM Dinner
10:00 PM Bed

Saturday, July 31 (partly cloudy and cool)
7:00 AM Wakeup
9:30 AM Leave for Joseph’s camp in Ngurunit in the north
12:30 PM Lunch at Trout-Tree Restaurant (amazing monkeys nearby and the freshest fish possible)
1:30 PM Stop for pictures at Equator
4:00 PM Tarmack ends at Isiolo and dirt road begins
8:30 PM Arrive at Joseph’s camp after 500 KM drive and dinner
10:00 PM Bed

Sunday, August 1 (mostly cloudy and cool)
6:45 AM Wakeup
7:00 AM Breakfast
9:00 AM Hike in area with Josephat – See many mothers, young children, goats, and camels; we hear loudspeaker speeches about upcoming vote on constitution
12:00 PM Back to camp for lunch (chicken stew and ugali) and relaxation
2:00 PM Quick visit from Joseph and quiet afternoon
7:30 PM Dinner (spaghetti and potato stew)
8:30 PM Bed

Monday, August 2 (sunny and warmer)
6:45 AM Wakeup
7:30 AM Breakfast
9:00 AM Watch 3 moran (young warriors) get water from well
10:00 AM Walk to local school; on way saw young boy who had stepped in fire and burned foot badly (we gave some bacitracin)
11:30 AM Drove to Ngurunit Primary School to see it. Jamie and Muddy stay there while Claudia and Laurel ride with Steven to Marsabit to help with errands
12:30 PM Laurel and Claudia attend Samburu wedding
1:00 PM Jamie and Muddy walk back to camp with two young Kenyan teachers who work in school a primary and secondary school in Korr
2:00 PM Lunch
4:00 PM Jamie and Muddy climb a hill that gives good view of area
7:00 PM Dinner
9:15 PM Laurel and Claudia return from Marsabit
10:00 PM Bed

Tuesday, August 3 (sunny and hot)
6:45 AM Wakeup
8:30 AM Walk to Stephen’s camp and then drive to school to paint more blackboards
11:30 AM Drive to see another school in Mpagras (13 KM away);
Stephen talks to elders there about news including the proposed constitution; see place where well they tried to dig was washed away by flood
2:30 PM Lunch
4:00 PM Women from village set up market for us to buy crafts
5:15 PM Drive up tough road to slide in mountain stream
7:30 PM Leave for Samburu Sports Camp in South Horr (70 KM away)
9:30 PM Arrive at camp, dinner and bed

Wednesday, August 4 (sunny and hottest day yet - Constitution referendum today)
7:00 AM Wakeup
8:15 AM Drive 70 KM north to Lake Turkana
10:30 AM Arrive at Palm Shade Camp in Loyangalani on Lake
Turkana; lots of lava rock looks like moonscape)
11:00 AM Meet lots of kids from Elmolo tribe (smallest tribe in world); they hold our hands as we walk down hill to market; get tour of village and learn about their main livelihood, fishing
1:30 PM Lunch
2:30 PM Rest at camp
5:00 PM Go for swim at pool fed by hot-water spring; then, go to watch local officials count votes for referendum on new Constitution
7:00 PM Dinner
9:00 PM Chat with Joseph who is optimistic about outcome of referendum
10:00 PM Bed

Thursday, August 5 (clear and hottest day of trip - 39 degrees Celsius)
7:00 AM Wakeup
8:00 AM Breakfast
9:00 AM Tour of Loyangalani with David, grade 8 student; see Joseph conduct rally of locals while another group marches on our camp to press an issue with Joseph that he resolves
11:00 AM Return to Camp to wait for Stephen and Joseph and lunch
3:30 PM Leave for Ngurunit
6:00 PM Stop at Sambura Sports Camp for dinner and shoot some baskets with kids there
9:00 PM Arrive at Stephen’s camp and sleep outside on deck
10:00 PM Bed

Friday, August 6 (sunny and warm)
7:00 AM Wakeup
8:00 AM Breakfast
9:00 AM Walk to riverbed to collect stones that will serve as foundation for 2 new classrooms for school (hot and demanding); fill Land Rover 4 times with rocks
12:30 PM Lunch and siesta
4:30 PM Moran warriors dance and sing for us for 90 minutes
6:45 PM Fireside chat with Stephen’s children and their friends and cousins
8:00 PM Dinner
9:00 PM Bed

Saturday, August 7 (sunny and warm)
6:15 AM Wakeup
8:30 AM Goodbyes to new friends in Ngurunit and leave for Nanyuki
10:30 AM Stop at World Vision office in Laisamis
11:00 AM Stumble on new camp built in hillside owned by Diipa Lenanyangara and sponsored by a group called Cultural Survival
2:30 PM Lunch at Oasis Restaurant in Isiolo
5:15 PM Arrive at Equator Chalet in Nanyuki
6:00 PM Walk streets and are besieged by children asking for handouts
7:30 PM Dinner at Sherlock’s Den at Books First
9:00 PM Back to hotel and bed

Sunday, August 8 (cool and brief mist before sun in Central Highlands)
6:30 AM Breakfast
8:30 AM Leave for Ilariak Game Lodge
10:00 AM Stop at Thompson Falls in Nyahururu
11:00 AM Stop at Kisima Secondary School run by David and Catherine; beautiful school for poor students from north of Kenya
11:30 AM Visit David and Catherine at their home
2:30 PM Arrive Naivasha and have lunch at La Belle Inn
5:15 PM Lights of car sow problem with engine so we are nervous; after restarting car, it is fine
6:15 PM Arrive at Ilariak Lodge
7:00 PM Dinner
8:00 PM Watch Kenyan Idol on TV
10:00 PM Bed

Monday, August 9 (partly sunny, 15 degrees Celsius at wakeup)
5:45 AM Breakfast
6:15 AM Leave for 65 KM trip to Masai Mara
7:30 AM Arrive at game park and pick up guide (Sam)
8:00 AM Get first look at 4 million migrating wildebeests (90% are male)
9:30 AM See hippo site near Tanzanian border, also see crocodile, hyena, cheetah, giraffe, zebras, and many dead wildebeests often with vultures
11:30 AM Get 10 feet from sleeping lion and lioness
1:00 PM Lunch at Keekorok Lodge
2:00 PM More touring of park
5:15 PM Return to lodge; drove 150 KM in park during day;
Crossed Sand River into Tanzania and Serengeti Park
8:00 PM Dinner
8:30 PM Great talk with Joseph and Stephen in front of fire
10:30 PM Bed

Tuesday, August 10 (cool and partly sunny)
7:00 AM Wakeup
8:00 AM Breakfast
9:10 AM Leave for Nairobi
12:30 PM Arrive Nairobi and go to Joseph’s office
1:00 PM Lunch in Parliament dining room
2:30 PM Observe Parliament in session
3:00 PM Go on walking tour of downtown Nairobi and to top of Kenya International Convention Center (2nd tallest building in city, with great view)
6:00 PM Meet Joseph in office and drive to Carnivore restaurant
8:15 PM Leave for Airport
9:00 PM Arrive airport and Joseph takes us straight to lounge used by Parliament members
11:30 PM Flight departs for Zurich

Wednesday, August 11
6:30 AM Flight arrives Zurich
12:40 PM Flight arrives JFK in New York
6:00 PM Flight arrives in Boston

Photo: Jamie Waters and Steven Labarakwe with Taita Toyota (Photo credit: Laurel Seid)

Sunday, August 8, 2010

Update

We have had a amazing two weeks in Kenya, including several days of service and visits to schools while living in a Samburu community in the North and the balance of our time spent seeing sights throughout the country.

With Netbook, extra batteries, and a tether arrangement for the Blackberry to access the Internet through a mobile connection, we thought we had set off on this adventure prepared to create a daily blog entry when in regions with cell service. However, consistent cell service has been an elusive thing, even where we thought we would be able to connect.
So, we'll offer a retrospective on our trip instead. We head home on Wednesday and should have much to share soon thereafter.

Claudia